Thursday, February 12, 2026

From Puffin to Penguin

February 11, 2026

On a balmy Thursday evening of late January 2026, when the weather in Calcutta is at its most pleasant, I was sitting on a red plastic stool near a tea stall on the foot path of Southern Avenue, sipping my favourite spicy lemon tea laced with fine slices of ginger and chatting with a friend visiting from abroad. The phone started ringing. It was Bebu, my daughter. This is odd. She has never quite called me unless in some emergency or to exchange information. Was she going to give me some good news or bad? I wasn't very sure which but I knew if she was calling me it had to be either of the two.

For two days we have been waiting anxiously to hear from Penguin (now Penguin Random House) about the outcome of the written test she had taken for an entry level position in their editorial team in Delhi. It was a gruelling two and a half hour test that she took using my laptop from her room behind locked doors. At the end of it when she came out she was almost on the verge of tears and fretting if not fuming that she was let down by the useless Windows laptop whose key board she was not used to and hence it took her a very long time to finish. She had to individually key in each letter and couldn't type fluently without looking at the board. Struggling as she did with the keyboard, she couldn't do justice to the passages that she was asked to edit etc etc. She was almost certain that she wouldn't make it because of the laptop. 

Mentally I remembered what type of workmen complaint about their tools but kept my thoughts to myself. Because she was not a "bad workman" after all.

I was quite sad. Geetanjali Roy will fail in an English test anywhere in the world is something I find very difficult to digest. Not because she is my daughter but neutrally speaking, her English is impeccable by any international standard. If we were sure about one thing it was that she would sail through this phase of the interview process quite easily. If she had to get a job on the strength of writing decent English she would walk into any organisation anywhere in the world. But struggle with the keyboard was not something I had counted. 

Having known her for more than 22 years now, she has this habit of managing her expectations in this way. She promises low so that she can deliver high. I repeatedly asked her, "it is okay that you didn't perform as per your own standard but do you think by a general standard what you wrote was bad?" She gave some evasive answers and we let the matter rest there. Keeping fingers crossed in such situations is all that one can do. That is exactly what we did.

Penguin's HR had called her on Tuesday and gave her a short notice to take the test with a computer that had a working camera. They would monitor her when she took the exam to prevent any cheating. Her Macbook's camera (she has never used anything else in life) had stopped working long ago and she borrowed mine for the test. She had two hours to finish it but when she realised the computer was literally not upto speed she sought some more time from them which was granted. Even then, apparently she could not do full justice to the last passage that she was asked to edit. 

Other than some five longish passages to edit, the test had a grammar section which she breezed through and an essay to write on the most striking novel she had read in the recent past. I asked her which book it was and she named some esoteric Dutch author's name that I had never even heard of. I wanted to tell her that even if it is true you should not write about such books because the examiner might think you mugged it up to make an impression in the test. But better sense prevailed and I said nothing.

We spent Wednesday hoping to hear from Penguin but no one called. On Tuesday when they had made the first contact they had shown a certain urgency. The HR lady asked her how soon she could join to which she said she was doing an internship with Kolkata Lit Meet (KLM) where she was required to be till the middle of the month. 

KLM happened in her life earlier in January. And that is from where a chain of events took place that brought her thus far in this Penguin journey. Therefore it takes a very important role in her career as a literary editor. Call it serendipity or propitious or whatever but I have noticed that when you want something very earnestly you end up getting it, no matter how impossible it might sound at the germination stage of the wish. 

My theory is that when you focus intently on a particular path in life you end up, consciously or otherwise, doing things that are related to that area. And there things happen that take you to your destination. If you are prepared opportunities definitely come. 

One evening, 6th January to be precise, while surfing from the living room sofa I was looking at the list of authors and speakers who would be attending the KLM scheduled for later that month. It had the who's who of the Indian literary and publishing scene. Among others Amitav Ghosh, Jhumpa Lahiri, Kiran Desai and Banu Mustaq would all be there. The absolute elite of Indian writers (not all of them live in India though). Together they have won everything from Booker to Pulitzer. 

I thought Mampu would love to be here and I knew the owner of the company - Jeet Banerjee - who with his wife Malavika organizes the event (they do another very important cultural festival which is the Bengal Biennale). So I asked Mampu if she was interested in volunteering here and I could send in a request on her behalf. A few years ago she had shown a desire to attend the Jaipur Literary Festival and we encouraged her to do it too. In fact while in Calcutta she had attended KLM in the past too as a visitor. She had also volunteered for a Seagul event.

In a propitious moment Mampu agreed without batting an eye lid and I sent a message to Jeet asking if they required help. Things happened quite fast that night after this. By 12.30 am she got a message from Mala (Jeet's wife), after she took a look at her CV, asking her to come to her office the next morning for an interview and Geetanjali Roy started working in her office - Gameplan - from the very next day. Eighth January.

While there, she met among others Arundhati Roy, Banu Mustaq, Upamanyu Chatterjee - all elite Indian writers. In fact as things turned out she was tasked with picking up Kiran Desai from the airport and bring her to the hotel via the Book Fair. Nothing could be better than this as Kiran was her most favourite author at the Meet. And she got a chance to privately chat with sucha a literary celebrity for a few hours. In fact, Kiran wrote her a beautiful message while signing her book. 

All this while, when she was going to KLM I was hoping that here she would meet someone important in the field of publishing. I even told her - "for all you know Chiki Sarkar might be there at the festival. Get introduced to her". 

Chiki Sarkar is the owner/publisher of Juggernaut and had earlier been the publisher of Penguin where her father Aveek Sarkar held a big stake (Penguin later merged with Random House and Aveek Sarkar sold his stake to the new owners as part of the global deal. This made Chiki Sarkar leave Penguin to set up her own publishing house). Mampu had sent her a cold email offering to intern with her company but as it happens with such cold mail in most cases, she got no response. Poor Mampu. But I hoped something would happen here.

In football, coaches say if you are a good scorer and can position yourself in the right place at the right time you will get at least one opportunity. But when the opportunity comes you must be ready to score. You cannot fumble. 

That one opportunity came and Mampu didn't fumble and scored the all important goal. 

One Saturday afternoon (24th January) the publisher of Penguin, Milee Aishwariya (ironically enough, she replaced Chiki at Penguin after the takeover), was waiting at the author's lounge for her turn to moderate a talk. And Professor Arunava Sinha, our very own Bultuda, took this opportunity to introduce Mampu to her as a promising young student of his from Ashoka who writes very well. Mampu told her, albeit a little cheekily perhaps, "you have my dream job", to which she smiled indulgently. They had some exchange of pleasantries and it ended there. After all, all professors praise their students.

After some time another important character arrives in the scene. Kanishka Gupta. He is a hot shot literary agent in Delhi for who Mampu has worked very dilligently as an intern for a few months. Though an intern she almost worked full time for his company reading new manuscripts, writing reviews so that the agent could take a call on its "publishability" and pitch to publishers, editing copies, writing jacket covers etc. She even wrote the text to go with the exhibits at an art exhibition. 

All this without ever even meeting Kanishka. 

I still remember how Mampu came dancing to my room one afternoon saying "I have got my dream job. I will be working as an intern for Writer's Side of Kanishka Gupta. Among others they represent Geetanjali Shree". 

When Mampu saw Kanishka at the KLM author's lounge she went up to him and quietly introduced herself to him saying - you might remember my name. I am Geetanjali Roy. Mampu's engagement at his firm ended a little acrimoniously as Kanishka very conveniently forgot to pay her for a couple of months. If I am not mistaken Ashoka has perhaps black listed him from any future relationships.

However, here Kanishka was delighted to meet Geetanjali and promptly decided to introduce her once again to Milee (perhaps atoning for his past sins). Mampu smilingly told Milee "so here we go once again". But Kanishka said glorious things about Mampu's writing skills and how she helped him on four book projects. He also said, I know you need people in your editorial department at Penguin. You should consider hiring her.

This was a turning point in Mampu's life. Endoresement from an industry player means a lot in any industry. Milee gave her email id and told Mampu to send a CV. She said to enter Penguin one has to pass an English test. This was the through ball that the striker was waiting for and she volleyed towards the goal from the top of the box. 

The CV went out on Saturday night and after the two holidays of Sunday followed by India's Republic Day, she got the first HR call on Tuesday. The ball was going towards the goal but it took some time to hit the net.

Coming back to the phone call from Mampu on that Thursday evening, she started with - "so Penguin had called". The editor-in-chief, Saloni Mital who would be her line manager (meaning Mampu would be working under her) had called Mampu and told her that she liked the edit test performance and grilled her over what she wrote. After this they discussed her salary and when she would join etc. She also said that the head of HR, Ms Aditi Kumar, would speak to her and the CEO might also speak to her.

I was more than certain the goal had been scored. But Mampu did not want to celebrate. She said let the HR lady call me and let's see. Of course, as they say there is many a slip between the cup and the lip but I could smell the tea hotting up in the cup. I told her these prcise words - unless you goof up big time during the chat with HR and CEO you have got the job. Once your line manager approves you and sends you to the head of HR it's just a matter of formality now. But you need not celebrate now. Wait for the final word.

Next day the senior HR lady called her and they had a very cordial conversation. Mampu came out and announced - I have probably got the job :) Ms Kumar told her that their CEO might speak to Mampu as he likes to do that with all new joinees but it would depend on his availability.

Next day the junior HR lady called in to say, today the CEO may or may not speak to her depending on his availability but she would issue the offer letter before "EoD" in any case. Neither the CEO called nor did the offer letter come. Even on the next day there was complete silence from Penguin. 

Just when we were beginning to worry if something went wrong somewhere, Mampu got a call from the junior HR lady saying since she was a fresher it goes against Penguin's  policy to give her a direct employment on their pay roll. She was instead offered a consultant's position meaning she would be on a renewable contract for six months with a consolidated pay and TDS only. 

My opinion was this was fine and she had no reason to refuse it. Although it was a step down of sorts but if you look at it as a stand alone offer (without considering what was promised to her earlier) this was good enough to start. My only contention was that this they should have realized before offering her the job verbally.

Mampu was sent a soft copy of the contract which she accepted. As per the terms she would need to "not come to the office" and work from home during this period. However, she would be required to be in Delhi for two weeks starting the next Monday, 9th February. They would pay for the two way flight ticket but not the stay. 

Using her Delhi network she promptly got herself a PG accomodation for a month. I told her to spend one more week in Delhi looking for a suitable stay after couple of months. If she wanted to make a career in publishing she should relocate to Delhi - whether she is required to go to work or not. 

So on Sunday our little Puffin flew out to Delhi and on Monday she became a Penguin. 

Epilogue

Mampu has got a work laptop (the same "damn" HP machine with which she got in) and a Penguin email id. She is being issued a consultant's card to wear around her neck while in office. She has also been told that if she lived in Delhi she should go to work twice a week, as they all do. These might sound like small things in future when she looks back at how her professional life began but to a young girl starting her life as part of a large organisation these are big prestige issues. And she is very happy with them. Because, it shows Penguin is treating as a bonafide employee for all practical purposes.

They have told her that her contract situation will be evaluated after five months and they will decide on her future after that in the sixth month. They might roll it over for another six months or confirm her in August. At The Economic Times I worked as a trainee for a year. We are keeping our fingers crossed. 

If quality of work as an editor is all that she is going to be judged on, she should walk into a confirmed job in August. But large organisations have many other things to consider before final full time employment. So, let the little Puffin now slowly morph into a Penguin and enjoy an independent life in Delhi. 

We shall see what happens in future when future comes.





Saturday, April 12, 2025

Bolt From The Blue

 Written on 9th April 2025 

After much trepidation and hesitation I went ahead and did it. I installed two anchor bolts on the wall to fix a clamp for my resistance band. And quite successfully so. I have been missing such a clamp in the house for a long time (you can do certain exercises only if you have this) but shied away from installing it as I had no idea how to do it perfectly. It has to be very strongly driven into the wall. In olden days people would typically cement them in with the help of a mason. It is not as invasive an operation as that any more but it requires knowledge and experience.

A few weeks ago I had to repair a broken small bracket on the tube light in Mampu's room. It had broken off. A mini success with that prompted me to go ahead an install a brass hook on the wall for hanging my helmet. Encouraged by its success I installed three of them for all my helmets. I even fixed the board for the various keys. It used to earlier hang off the wall like a photo frame.

Each of these involved making a hole (in fact two) in the wall, putting a nylon plug in and then driving the screw in with the Bosch drilling machine. After this mini success I considered using Rawl bolts to install this D bracket. Rawl bolts are heavy duty stuf but they have a beauty that you can take the bolt out because it is screwed in and not hammered. And it has very high strength to hold really heavy forces (depending on the size you choose). Once you screw the bolt in the plug that is hammered in expands into the wall and makes a very strong grip.

I ordered the bracket/clamp off Amazon a few days ago. It came with four Rawl plugs/bolts as it has four eyelets on either side. These were 10 mm bolts which looked like an overkill for my purpose. So I ordered a few 6 mm bolts. 

They arrived today and I got down to the job - complete with my head lamp, eye cover for dust and everything else. This "everything" else included the following things 

The Bosch drill

10 mm masonary drill bit

Cellotape and scissors (to mark the drill bit for depth)

Pencil (for 90 degree vertical alignment line)

Spirit Level

Hammer (to drive the plug in)

The bolts (obviously)


  

Saturday, July 13, 2024

Thursday, June 20, 2024

Two Tagore Songs

Tagore classified his songs into a few broad themes. Puja, Prem, Prakriti etc. Prem means love. Prakriti means nature. These are easily translated but translating the word puja is a bit tricky here. Because generally by puja we mean religious rituals, functions etc. Tagore's Puja songs are not at all religious in that sense. In fact being a Brahmo himself he was against the idea of organised religion with gods and goddesses.

I think the word "spiritual" best describes the word Puja in the context of Tagore songs (if you are a Bengali and have a better suggestion please feel free to let me know). 

Now many, if not most Puja and Prem songs are interchangeable depending on how you interpret them. Some obvious love songs, you might discover, are classified as spiritual and some apparently spiritual songs are classified by Tagore as love songs. We ordinary mortals do not understand how the mind of geniuses work. 

I will discuss here two such songs. One is classified as Puja song or spiritual while the other is classified as a Love song while it could easily be a spiritual song where "you" could well mean God. But one is free to interpret it to have some other meaning. These two are two of my most favourite songs. They are quite famous among Tagore lovers. And the two songs are more or less similar in their thoughts.

One I sang and recorded to be played at a memorial for my mother. I sang it as my address to my then just departed mother. It is supposed to be a love song, as classified by Tagore. A song of longing and waiting in vain. It has a lot of pathos in the way the words are arranged, not to speak of the tune in which it is set and the tempo at which it is supposed to be sung.

It is about the waiting and longing for someone who you think might come some day and you are staying awake for that moment. But you are getting tired and feeling sleepy while waiting. The melody of the song has a pathos in it. It could be interpreted as a wait for a lover, a departed soul or God himself. It is entirely upto you how you want to interpret it. Because the setting is a temple somewhere in a dark forested area.

I shall write the Bengali version of the song first and then attempt a translation to explain the meaning. I will also try and find a link to the song I recorded for my mother. 

দীপ নিবে গেছে মম 

ধীরে ধীরে 

এসে তুমি যেও না 

গো ফিরে 

এ পথে যখন যাবে আঁধারে 

চিনিতে পাবে 

রাজনীগন্ধার গন্ধ 

ভরেছে মন্দিরে 

ধীরে ধীরে 

এসে তুমি যেও না 

গো ফিরে 

আমারে পড়িবে মনে কখন 

সে লাগি প্রহরে প্রহরে 

আমি গান গেয়ে জাগি 

ভয় পাছে শেষ রাতে ঘুম আসে 

আঁখি পাতে 

ক্লান্ত কন্ঠে মোর সুর ফুরায় 

যদি রে 

ধীরে ধীরে 

এসে তুমি যেও না 

গো ফিরে 

Now the translation. I am not sure if there is an official translation of it. I will attempt one without the rhyme. It will be a literal translation just to explain the meaning to any one who doesn't know Bengali. 

Dip* nibe gechhe momo 

My prayer lamp has flickered off
In the gentle breeze of the night
Please don't go back if you do come afterall
In your soft steps

You can find the way here in the darkness
From the tuberoses
That fill the temple with their fragrance 
Please don't go back if you do come afterall
In your soft steps

I don't know when you might remember me at last
That's why I stay awake throughout the night
Singing songs every hour
I fear my tired eye lids might close 
Towards the end of the night
When my music dies out in my tired throat

Please don't go back if you do come afterall
In your soft steps

Those who are not poetically inclined and have still read this far - Tagore is pleading for the lover not to go back even if she (since Tagore is a man I am assuming it's a she. In Bengali gender cannot be understood unless stated categorically) remembers about him and comes some time late. There are two reasons why she might go back, he fears. First the darkness because the lamp has blown out. Second she might find him asleep from the tiredness that comes from waiting in vain. But he is trying his best to stay awake. 

He possibly wants to be woken up. He doesn't say it. Certain words are best kept unstated, particularly in love.

Being an extremely emotional man every time I sing this song I break down crying. The emotion is too much for me to handle. 

* Dip in Bengali means the small butter lamp that is used in temples. The translation "lamp" doesn't quite convey the meaning of the soft gentle light that it produces in a dark temple in the jungle. 

The next one is a similar song of waiting but it's a Puja song. It's very famous and usually it is sung in spring time, particularly in the evening. 

Aaj jyotsna raate sabai gechhe bone 

আজ জ্যোৎস্না রাতে সবাই গেছে বনে 

বসন্তের এই মাতাল সমীরণে 

যাবো না গো যাবো না যে রইনু পড়ে ঘরের মাঝে 

এই নিরালায় রব আপন কোনে 

যাবো না এই মাতাল সমীরণে 

আমার এ ঘর বহু যতন করে 

ধুতে হবে মুছতে হবে মোরে 

আমারে যে জাগতে হবে কি জানি সে আসবে কবে 

যদি আমায় পড়ে তাহার মনে 

বসন্তের এই মাতাল সমীরণে 

Again I am not sure if there is an official translated version of this song. Here is my attempt at a literal translation to explain the meaning. 

This moonlit night everyone has gone to the forest

In this intoxicating springtime breeze

I won't go, I will stay alone in the solitude of my home

I won't go in this intoxicating springtime breeze

I have to keep this house clean, sweep the floors with care

I have to stay awake, you never know when He* might come

In case he remembers me in this intoxicating springtime breeze

In the last but one line I have used the pronoun He because it is classified as a Puja song. By He Tagore definitely means God. But we in Bengali do not use gender based pronouns. A person is "shay". It could be a he or she. We understand from the context. So we can freely interpret to mean as any person. 

I have no idea why Tagore made such an obvious love song turn into a spiritual song. A song of longing and waiting in the intoxicating breeze of springime that too on a moonlit night. The gentle breeze during a moonlit spring evening is extremely romantic in Bengal. Who wants to wait for God? You can only wait for your lover. Also the song is set to a faster tempo and cannot be sung with any pathos really. 

But as I said the mind of a genius is very difficult to understand for us ordinary mortals. 

As I discovered, I do not have these songs readily available to share. I shall record them some other time and then share. It will take time. Keep coming back to check. 

Friday, June 14, 2024

A dove story

First nesting. The blooming yellow orchid is on this side of the window.


A few months ago a pair of spotted doves had made a nest in one of the orchid tubs on the grill of my window. They used to visit my little window garden almost every day for a long time and then built the nest almost overnight when we were gone for a long weekend. It was quite successful in that the chicks hatched, the chicks grew and flew off the nest. This was in March 2024. The entire process took about a  month or so. I observed and took photographs of various stages of the process. 

Now they have come back and once again have started the process. This time I want to keep a day by day journal as a citizen science project. Here in Calcutta we call them box grills. They are installed on windows to discourage thieves. They are a foot or so projected outside the window so that you can use the space outside the window. People mostly dry their washed clothes there :-) I keep orchids on that grill with a curtain to cut back on the strong tropical sun. 


14th June 2024 - Day 1 

While opening the window in the morning today to water the plants, I startled the dove sitting on the old nest. I didn't realise it was there. It flew away. It was sitting with its tail touching the window pane. It was in the incubating pose. It has still not laid the eggs but I am more than certain it will do so in a day or so. I moved the tub (in which it had nested last time) a bit away from the window so that it does not touch the pane. It seemed to have cleaned the nest a bit. 

After the chicks flew away last time, it looked terribly dirty with their droppings. I was in fact wondering how they would ever nest here again. But they have. 

Didn't see them for the whole day. But heard. 

15th June 2024 - Day 2 

Evening 8 pm - it was still there on the nest. I think the eggs have already been laid. It is not flying off even when I open the window. I guess the first few hours/days they are so protective that they don't fly off easily.

Here is the note written in the morning. 

Morning ten o clock and it is sitting there again. Today I didn't open the window. Will do so when it goes away, if at all. I can see it from this side of the smoked glass.

Even at 11 am when I went back it was still sitting there. I opened the window thinking it was not there. But it was very much there. And it didn't move at all. I watered the plants. It made its body smaller and ducked its neck down but allowed me to carry on with my job for about a minute.  I am sure it has perhaps already laid the eggs. Or may be it was in the process of laying the eggs at that point of time. I had noticed this courage when the chicks had just hatched. It would just not fly out. Otherwise when it was just sitting on the eggs it would fly out to let me finish my job and then fly back again after I would be gone.

I am using the pronoun "it" because I am not sure if it is the mother or the father. If the egg laying process is on then it could only be the mother. The previous pair had one of the birds with a hooked bill. Possibly the female. This one that I saw this morning seemed much smaller and with a normal bill. Is it possible that the front of the bill had broken in the meantime and grew back normally? Not sure.

I am curious to know if the same old pair came back or it is the chicks that have now paired up. Do they get ready for parenthood so early in life ? Shuvankar-da thinks it is the same old pair and if the nest stays good they will repeatedly come and raise their chicks.

Note the crooked bill. This used to sit on the eggs in the day time. 

16th June 2024 - Day 3

Morning 10 am. I opened the window and watered the plants. The bird is sitting still in the nest. Last time when I would open the window the bird would fly off and sit on the branch of the mango tree behind and later come back. Of course towards the later stage it became more tolerant. This time it's just not budging. In fact I have not even actually seen the eggs so far.  This behaviour of absolutely not budging I saw when the chicks had just hatched. The parent would just not move, leaving the chicks exposed. 

I noticed the bill of the bird closely. It is straight. Also this bird is quite smaller than the previous ones. 

Afternoon 3 pm - at around 2 pm I decided to grease the rails of my window. These are aluminium sliding windows and they make a lot of squealing noise. Now that I am frequently opening and shutting the window I thought I would grease them to make it easier for the birds. I am sure they hate that noise as much as I do. So I greased the rails thoroughly. The bird didn't budge at all. 

I left the window open and went away. After some time at around 2:40 I noticed the nest was empty and there were those two jewels of white eggs sitting pretty there. I was so happy to see them. As if I have had two grand children. Just as I was preparing to bring the camera for a shot of the eggs I saw the other dove come in to sit. It is obviously the male. It's a little larger than the one I saw earlier in the day. And its bill is also straight. I photographed it. 

So the eggs are there and I can quite differentiate between the mom and dad. Mom is visibly smaller. Will keep observing every day. 

17th June 2024 - Day 4

12 noon. I just checked the nest while watering the plant. Moma dove is sitting. She didn't fly off and allowed me to water the plants from close proximity, as usual. In fact I have to extend my hand over its body and head to water one of the plants. She is fine with that. Just ducks a bit. 

I am more than convinced that this is a new pair and possibly the ones that had hatched in March. One of the birds from that lot looked visibly smaller from day one of hatching. That looks like is the new mother now. 

18th June 2024 - Day 5

No change in status. I watered the plants at 9.30 am. She was sitting there. Didn't fly out. 

Thursday, March 21, 2024

The Dove Family

 A little miracle of sorts is happening in my room right now. A pair of spotted doves has made a nest in one of the orchid tubs that I have on my window grill. They laid two eggs when we had gone on a short vacation to McCluskygunj. That was on Sunday, the 3rd of March 2024. The chicks hatched yesterday, that is on Wednesday 20th March, 2024. Which means a total of 18 days' incubation period. 

Right now the chicks are two days old. The parents are still sitting over them round the clock. I saw the chicks being active outside the mother's (it could be the father also - doves cannot be sexed apart) breast in the afternoon for a short while. Both are alive and kicking. 

Yesterday in the afternoon, when I saw the chicks for the first time (I think the parents were changing their shifts and the nest was unsupervised) I thought one of them was perhaps dead. But today I felt reassured to find both of them active. Just a woolen ball though with nothing discernible in the form of eyes or bill. 

I will note down my observations here. 

The pair was visiting my window box for a few weeks now. Tthe grill is outside the window opening and in the shape of a box where I have a few tubs with orchids. I have recently also placed a thin cloth to give the plants shade against the sun. From their visits - they were targetting a particular tub - I could make out they were planning to set up the nest. Doves are known to make their nest like this and tubs with growing plants is their favourite place. Being orchid tubs it has charcoals and broken pieces of red bricks. 

The eggs were laid when we were gone. When I started observing them I found they sit still round the clock over the eggs. Extremely patiently. Not even a wink. If I stand close they look at me with caution in their eye, regardless of the time of the day. They allow me to water the plants on this side of the window without getting alarmed. When I try to water the plants on their side of the window they would fly quietly to the mango tree nearby. 

The parents apparently take turns to sit on the eggs. The male in the morning and the female in the night. I have not been able to see this shift change. But I can distinguish between the individuals, though I cannot sex them apart. One has a slightly curved bill (it's a deformity) while the other has a normal bill. 

During the day the curved bill fellow sits. 

I left some wheat grains on a plate in front of the nest so that they could feed on it. They have not even touched it so far in the last few days.

Yesterday while watering the plants I found the parent was super bold. It did not fly out even when I entered my hand on the other side of the window. I watered the plants carefully. It didn't budge. First I thought I had gained enough of their confidence for this. Later it struck me that probably the chicks had already hatched and the parent didn't want to leave them unprotected.

I later found a broken egg shell lying on the next tub. Later I thought the chicks were possibly born. I think I saw one of them coming out from under the parent's breast. I saw them for sure only when I found the nest without any parent for a very short time. I took their photograph. Nothing much is discernible. Just a fluffy ball of cotton wool. 

Today I saw them being active outside the parent's breast but soon enough they were inside. I am told they will remain like this for about four to five days. After that they will be grown up enough not to need any of the parents. Finally they will fly the nest in two weeks or so.

I am worried about crows. I just hope they make it safely into flight mode and be on their own.

I am told if they succeed with these chicks, they will come back soon enough to raise another pair of chicks. Let me see how it goes.


Saturday, August 12, 2023

DIY Valley of Flowers

These days there are lots of trekking agencies that take trekkers to different routes in the Himalayas. While you can go with them for any of those treks, you could also do many of these treks on your own and solo quite easily provided you have prior information on what to expect.

Here I will try to describe the do's and don'ts of a Do It Yourself trek to the Valley of Flowers which is supposed to be one of the easiest beginners' treks. But before that let me give you a brief idea about the pros and cons of going with an agency. 

Going to VoF involves a long road trip through the Garhwal Himalaya in monsoon (there are fears of landslides and disruptions). Trek the Himalaya takes care of this part of the trek right from Rishikesh. That's a major advantage. If you do it on your own, you have to board the bus from Rishikesh bus stand very early in the morning. And it's a day long trip in an ordinary state bus. The TTH mini buses are much better. If you are in a small group hiring a taxi from Rishikesh would be a better option, albeit a little expensive. 

Agencies like India Hikes ask you to report straight to their base in Govindghat. Might as well walk on your own also. There is nothing special about walking with India Hikes or any such agency. I will explain why a little later. In fact after the trek I thought the most difficult part of the trip was getting in an out of Govindghat - because of the monsoon triggered landslides.

While TTH puts you up for the night at Pipalkoti, a couple of hours before Govindghat and even before Joshimath, the public bus will take you straight to Govindghat where you can stay for the night and start the trek early morning next day.

The other disadvantages of trekking with an agency is that they typically choose the cheapest possible hotels with very basic food. The rooms have to be shared with complete strangers if you are alone who might happily snore right next to you. I cannot sleep like this at all. 

Also, while walking, you have to keep pace with the team. You can neither walk too fast, nor can you be too slow. You don't have much personal time to take photographs on the way etc. My experience with India Hikes was really poor in this respect. They even make you exercise after reaching the destination :-) Too old for all that bull shit.

An advantage of being with an agency is that you have experienced trek leaders and guides. They know the route extremely well and can be of much help in any medical emergency. On certain risky sections they take care of the safety aspect.

However, Valley of Flower route being a pilgrim trail is full of porters and mules. Believe it or not, there are garden chairs all along the way. So there is no reason why you should not do it solo and without any guidance of anyone.

You don't need to camp anywhere. You walk on day 1 to Ghangaria where there are plenty of hotels. The next two days are day treks without any overnight stay. That is, you go to the destinations - VoF and Hemkund Sahib on two respective days - and come back the same day. No question of spending the night anywhere. So it is basically a hotel trek. Eminently doable for a novice.

Since many costs are shared, trekking with an agency is quite inexpensive. If you are going on your own there are certain costs that might seem expensive to many. 

So now on with the day by day break up of the journey.

Day 1 - Rishikesh to Govindghat

The day starts from Rishikesh early in the morning at 5.30 am or so. Arrive the evening before and check into a hotel near the bus stand so that the next morning you need not worry about getting there so early. The main hotel area of Rishikesh is Tapovan where there are literally hundreds of hotels. But it's not near the bus stand. The main taxi stand of Rishikesh is near Ram Jhula which is not very far from Tapovan.

The bus journey should take about 12 hours or so if there is no road block and disruption en route. Landslides are very frequent in this route so be mentally prepared for that. The road follows the river Alokananda through Devaprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag etc and then climbs down from Joshimath to reach Govindghat - the last town on the bank of Alokananda. 

A hotel in Govindghat

There is a large Gurudwara in Govindghat where they offer Langar (free food) to anyone, regardless of caste, creed or religion. There are several basic hotels in Govindghat where you can check in for the night. There is a small market around the Gurudwara selling mostly Sikh religious items. There are many eating joints too. I had veg momo for Rs 100 a plate. 

Incidentally this entire route is vegetarian. You will not find any restaurant selling anything remotely non-veg. Don't even mention non-veg food anywhere. They are deeply offended. 

Day 2 - Pulna to Ghangariya (Jeep for 4 km and trek for 11 km)

From Govindghat cross the small Army Green bridge over Alokananda and proceed towards a village 4 kms away called Pulna. You can take a shared jeep here for this journey that would otherwise take you less than a couple of hours on foot. It's a black top road in decent state of repair. Beyond Govindghat they don't allow any outside taxi as this route is controlled by vehicle owners from Pulna village only. 

Pulna is the last village on this route. While Ghangariya is almost like a town, all the buildings there are basically hotels. It doesn't have any residents living there. In fact these places are under deep snow for about six months a year and no one stays here round the year.


If you are ready to rough it out, you could perhaps walk the previous evening from Govindghat and spend the night at one of the small homestays in Pulna. These are not hotels but homestays in the true sense of the word. 

Important thing to know here is that, no one is allowed to proceed from Govindghat after 2 pm. This rule is very strictly enforced. We were not allowed to move as we reached Govindghat at 3 pm. But if you explained to them that you would go only as far as Pulna they might relent. Don't bank on it though. I didn't personally do this.


The Hindi notice at Govindghat about movement restriction after 2


At Pulna one has to register oneself at the small registration counter on the left hand side of the road. For Indians one has to show some official identity. Foreigners have to show their passport. You can have breakfast here also. There are plenty small dhabas on the roadside. 

There are many porters and mule drivers who will solicit for your business here. They charge Rs 1000 for the 11 km uphill journey. 

The walk is up the very well defined and broad trail with a railing. Nothing could be easier than that in the Himalayas. To top it all, it is a very pleasant walk through a forest with innumerable glacial streams flowing all around. There are water taps along the route and of course plenty of eateries. Tea is Rs 30 for a cup. 

The trail is a continuous and rasonably steep climb. If you are not used to panting, you will find it difficult. Take rest. Start walking again. There is no other challenge involved. It took me about 6 hours to complete this hike with couple of tea breaks. It might rain. Take adequate protection against it. 

In Ghangria 

Ghangariya from the Hemkund trail


First comes the helipad of Ghangaria. It's a wide spread out valley with plenty of tented accomodation. We didn't stay here but proceeded towards the small town of Ghangaria which is about a kilometer or so away. There is a GMVN accomodation with dormitories and rooms etc and plenty of small hotels on either side of the road. Each hotel has an eatery in the ground floor. There is a Gurudwara also where they have rooms available at reasonable rates. I stayed in a room for Rs 800. This was Holiday Inn opposite to the Gurudwara. There was another hotel that offered its room for Rs 2000. I have no clue if their room had jacuzzi or what but I thought it was an exorbitant rate. 

Two things are offered at every hotel it seemed. Foot massage and hot water. I took neither. 

Near the GMVN rest house, there is a place where they sell books on the VoF and a documentary film on the uniqe valley is shown there too. This is an NGO that employs the sweepers along the way who pick plastic trash and clear the poop of the mules (it could be disgusting for many).

Day 3 - Ghangaria to VoF and Back

VoF is not only a National Park it is also a UN declared World Heritage site. It has a formal gate that opens at 7 am. You have to pay an entry fee here of Rs 150 per head (I am not sure what it is for foreigners). Every entry and exit to the valley is noted in a register. Being a highly protected biosphere, they don't allow mules on this route but porters are available. They even lug humans on their backs in a basket.

If the weather is bad on a particular day the gate may not be opened at all. In that case you have to go to Hemkund Sahib and hope for better weather the next day.

After Ghangaria the road forks into two towards these two destinations just before the check point. The left one goes to VoF and  the right goes to Hemkund. The Hemkund trail, being a pilgrimage, is never closed rain or shine. 

The VoF trail is a relatively narrow stone paved one. It's perhaps steeper than the first day's trek. After about four kilometers from the town, up the steep trail, you enter the valley that is wide, flat and well spread out. The flowers start right from the gate and here the variety and numbers are a lot more. 

However, don't believe the exaggerated and photoshopped photographs that you see on the net. The valley is all green. Not purple or red or yellow etc as shown in those pictures. The flowers, being wild, are very small. The overwhelming colour is green and the bright flowers dot this greenery very beautifully. 

Contrary to popular perception this valley doesn't have Brahma Kamals. For that you have to go to Hemkund and that too in late August.